Africa Trip 2024 - Day 9, More Ngorongoro Crater

[This is post #18 of 21 posts about our 2024 trip to Africa. To go to the first post in the series CLICK HERE.   At the end of the last post there is also a Directory with links of all 21 posts.]
 

It was now Day 9, September 18, of our epic African adventure.  We are on the rim of Ngorongoro Crater at Lion's Paw Camp.  We were up early in hopes of getting to the entrance gate to the crater (conveniently only 10 minutes away even with the detour around the dead water truck) when it opened at 6.

The altitude of the camp is about 7600 feet, comparable to Estes Park, CO (7522 ft), or maybe even Mammoth Lakes, CA (7881 ft), but higher than Santa Fe, NM (7199 ft) or Flagstaff, AZ (6910 ft).  Needless to say it gets quite chilly at night, especially this time of year. 

When we woke up it was 55 F in the room.  It was cozy under the covers, especially with the electric mattress warmer, but pretty nippy getting dressed.  We quickly got the propane heater in the room fired up, which helped immensely

Bundled for the cold.  After a great breakfast (they treated us like VIPs with the same reserved table by the window for our entire stay), we loaded up and were off.  We were glad to have prepared for the cold with multiple layers.  It was 50 F by the time we got to the crater floor, although it was undoubtedly colder at the rim.  That doesn't sound that cold, but it is still quite chilly in an open vehicle with no heat.

Multiple layers to keep warm on a 50 deg F morning

  Once on the crater floor we immediately spotted lots of zebra.

Early morning zebra in Ngorongoro Crater

 Best of all, we saw relatively few other vehicles.

 

Munge River, our Focus for Today.  Unlike the day before, which focused primarily on the animals in the trees and brush near the crater's southern edge, today was spent primarily in the open areas in the center of the crater in and around the Munge River.

We traveled up and down the river, including a couple of crossings, plus spent time at Lake Magadi and the marshy floodplain known as Mandusi Swamp.  Why? September is late in the dry season and the animals were concentrated in and around the water features.

Topographical map of Ngorongoro Crater with gps tracks.  Today, Day 9, are the dark green loops in the center.  Khaki green is Day 8.  Light green along the east rim is Day 10.  Lion's Paw Camp is on the northeast rim.

The Munge River, the main source of water in the crater, originates in the Olimeti Caldera to the north.  Olimeti is much higher, towering over the northren rim of Ngorongoro Crater.  The river flows across the north and west portions of the crater.  In several locations the river becomes a swampy marshland.  It eventually empties into Lake Magadi, the lake we had seen the day before as we entered the crater.   

Geologic map of Ngorongoro Crater.   The much higher Olimeti Caldera is to the northeast and is the source of the Munge River, which flows into the crater from the northeast, winds across the crater floor, and eventually ends at Lake Magadi. [Geological Highlights of East Africa's National Parks by Roger Scoon (p. 341). Penguin Random House South Africa. Kindle Edition.]

As we approached the river there were lots of zebra. 

 There were also other critters such as a kori bustard.

Kori bustard hunting for breakfast

Lion seeking  a warthog for breakfast.  After turning northeast along the south side of the river, we came upon multiple vehicles stopped on the road.  There was a small group of lions resting in the grass doing their usual cat things.  However, one of the lionesses had left the group when she saw some nearby warthogs.  According to Fazal, warthog is one of the lion's favorite foods.

We watched the lioness as she crept through the grass. 

Lioness trying to sneak up on the warthogs.

Meanwhile the warthogs were totally oblivious and seemed to have no idea there were lions nearby.

Warthogs rooting in the grass, totally oblivious to the approaching lion.

The lion was very patient, taking lots of time.  She was actually getting quite close.

Lioness as she gets close to the warthogs

Then the unexpected happened.  One of the lions in the resting group rolled over on her back and ended up with one of her legs stuck in the air.  Although a long distance away (at least 100 yards), one of the warthogs saw it and suddenly became aware there were lions in the vicinity.

One of the warthogs notices the group of resting lions

I don't know if the warthogs saw the nearby lion or whether the lion thought she needed to make her run now that the warthogs were on alert. In either case, the lion made a break for the warthogs.

Lion charging at the warthogs

However, she was too far away and the warthogs were already on alert, so she was unsuccessful.  She merely watched as the warthogs trotted away.  No warthog for breakfast today.

Much of this little drama is captured on the video below.

Other critters.  As we proceeded onward we encountered a variety of other animals, including a hyena.

Spotted hyena

We even saw a hippo on the shore almost hidden in the tall grass, even though eating on land is typically at night.  It was approaching 8 a.m., so maybe he was already on his way back to the river.

We crossed the river at a low water crossing and started back down stream on the far (northwest) side where we saw an ostrich along the road.

Male ostrich

Despite their feathers, it is hard to think of these strange creatures as birds.  

This was a male, as indicated by his black feathers.  Ostriches always are together as a pair, but we did not see the female.  Since the females tend the nest during the day, hence their brown color, perhaps she was nearby on a nest.

Lots of Zebra Congregating.  Further down the road we began seeing large numbers of zebra heading towards the river.

Most seemed pretty calm

Slowly marching to the river

 However, there was another group that seemed more rambunctious.   

  I'm not sure what their problem was.  Maybe they were juveniles. 

The zebra were moving over the bank and into the river, but we couldn't see much from this side.

Zebra moving into the river

We therefore crossed back over the river where Fazal thought we would be able to see the zebra actually in the river drinking.

We immediately saw numerous zebra waiting on the bank.  They tend to be super vigilant here since they know predators may be waiting for them.

Zebra on the lookout for predators before getting a drink

 

Waiting on the bank.  Are these zebra pregnant?

 

Momma zebra and foal waiting on the bank

 

 We now had the perfect spot to watch the zebra in the water.

 

Endless Line of Wildebeest.  We moved slightly upriver to get a better view of a mass of wildebeest moving our way.

They were moving to the river on our left.  According to Fazal, they spend time overnight elsewhere in the crater but move to the river for water.

Wildebeest moving across in front of us to the river on the left

Being wildebeest, some stopped in front of us to stare.

 The amazing thing was the endless lines of them coming this way from the right.

The seemingly endless lines of wildebeest moving to the river can be seen in the following video.

How Many Wildebeest?  I have no idea how many wildebeest we saw.  At last estimate (2003-2005) the wildebeest population in the crater was approximately 7250.  That is actually down considerably from nearly 15,000 in the mid-1980's.  This decline is thought to be due to the long prevention of fire in the crater which favors high-fibrous grasses over shorter, less fibrous types.

However many we saw, since it was near the end of the dry season, the number was likely near its yearly maximum.  Despite being thought of as a natural enclosure, there is some seasonal migration of animals into and out of the crater.  Estimates place 20 percent or more of the wildebeest and half the zebra populations vacate the crater in the rainy season,

More Zebra as we Move South.  We now began moving south towards Lake Magadi, but the going was slow because of all of the zebra.

German Settlers.  One different stop along the way was atop a small hill with a grand view of the crater.  

View looking southwest from German farmhouse site. Lake Magadi is in the distance, about 4 miles away.  The top of the crater rim, about 9 miles away, is still shrouded in morning fog.

This was the site of the home built by an early German settler, Adolph Siedentopf.  He, along with his brother Friedrich Wilhelm.Siedentopf, came to the crater about 1899 under the rule of Deutsch Ost-Afrika.  They farmed and raised cattle until World War I, when the area became British territory.  

Although one of my maps has a waypoint here labelled "Ruins of German Farm", there is nothing left.  However Friedrich Wilhelm's home, 8 miles away in the Lerai Forest near the base of the crater wall, is now part of a ranger station.  I wish we could have seen that when we were in that area the day before.

Birds in the Marsh.  As we got closer to the lake we entered a marshy area that was filled with different types of birds.

Malachite Kingfisher

Common Waxwings

Sacred Ibis

The black and white bird below, which we later learned was a Blacksmith Lapwing, was making a terrible fuss.  It was only after he moved to this site that we realized he might be trying to protect the nests.

Blacksmith Lapwing

There were even pelicans in the distance fishing for something.

Great White Pelicans fighting over the catch

Zebra and Wildebeest in the Swamp.  It wasn't only birds in the swamp.  Many wildebeest and zebra were hanging out here or resting nearby.

We also saw some Thomson's gazelles or tommies.

Mother tommie and a very cute little one

One crazy acting wildebeest apparently had an itchy back and was rolling in the mud.

Wildebeest scratching his head.

Wildebeest wallowing in the mud.

Here is a video of the wildebeest in the mud.

While we were watching the wildebeest in the mud, a swarm of mosquitos descended upon us.  This was the only time during the entire trip that we were aware of any mosquitos.  We decided to move along quickly.

Lake Magadi.  We finally made it to Lake Magadi at about 11:30.  The morning fog hanging over the rim had lifted and the view across the lake was beautiful. 

Lake Magadi

 A closer look revealed a variety of birds. 

Flamingo

Glossy Ibis

Red-billed Teal, just some of multiple types of ducks

Hippos.  The real surprise was seeing hippos in the lake.  Lake Magadi is an alkaline lake.  Mineral deposits from the evaporation of the water are easily seen around the edges.  It did not seem like a likely spot to find hippos.  However, the alkalinity is low enough where the river flows into the lake to be acceptable to the hippos.

Hippos in Lake Magadi

This is a video of the hippos going into the water.

Rhino.  It was now approaching noon.  We were getting hungry and more importantly the roads in the crater were getting so full it was creating traffic jams in places.  It seemed like a good time to call it a day and head back to camp for lunch.  However Fazal said he thought we might get the chance to see a rhinoceros on our way out.  That was then the plan, head towards home via the route where the rhino had been sighted.

To see a rhino is actually a very big deal.  They have been hunted almost to extinction by poachers for their horns.  Ngorongoro Crater is one of the last locations where a few still exist.

It took longer than expected due to the heavy traffic, but we finally made it to the top of Engitati Hill.  Engitati Hill rises several hundred feet above the surrounding plain, making it a prime location for spotting game even at a distance.      

Sure enough, with the naked eye we could see a black dot in the distance against the yellow/brown of the dried grass.  Looking now at the location on a map, it was probably at least a mile away. With binoculars it was possible to see that it was indeed a rhinoceros.  The picture below was shot with a 3000 mm equivalent lens.  It is a terrible picture due to all of the thermal mirage over such a long distance at high noon, but it is a rhino.  Yes, we really did see it!

Rhino at high noon from at least a mile away

 Although terrible photographically, the video below even more clearly shows it is a rhino.

Gray-crowned cranes.  Sighting the rhino really topped off an incredible morning of animal sightings.  We were now headed back to camp.  However we made one more stop when we spotted several  gray-crowned cranes.

Gray-crowned crane

These huge birds (up to 42 inches) really are beautiful.

Pair of Gray-crowned cranes

Lunch with the Baboons. It was almost 1:30 by the time we arrived back at camp.  We dropped off our stuff in the room, then went directly to the dining area.  The three of us sat on the patio and had a wonderful relaxing meal.  Being so late, I think we were the only ones eating.  I don't remember what we had except for the dessert--some of the best homemade ice cream I had ever had!  

Nearing the end of the meal we noticed baboons climbing into the nearby trees, lots of baboons. We first saw them on a tree near the dining area, but then realized they were in many trees going further down the steep slope.  They were eating seeds from seed pods on the trees.

Once back in the room, we got our cameras and tried to get a shot of he baboons.

View from the patio of our room.  The baboons are dots on top of the right most tree.

Baboons on top of the tree

Baboons in one of the trees

Below is a video of one of the baboons eating the seeds from the seed pods.  I couldn't steady the shot very well without a tripod, but it is sill interesting to see how quickly he is grabbing the pods and extracting the seeds.

That was an exciting way to end our animal sightings for the day.  The rest of the day was spent relaxing and getting ready for our trip in the morning to a different national park, Lake Manyara.