Friday, June 30, 2023

Galapagos Trip 2023 -- Day 4 -- Rabida Island (part 2)

We took a very short break after our hike on Rabida Island, then were off again.  This time we were off for a trip on the glass bottom boat to explore the underwater world near the island. This would be on the peninsula on the northeast corner of the island, the same peninsula as the hike earlier in the morning

Aerial photo showing gps track of our glass bottom boat exploration along the coast of Rabida Island.  The track on land in the lower left hand corner is from our hike earlier in the morning (previous post).

We took a panga to the west side of the peninsula where we transitioned to the glass bottom boat that was already in place. 

Taking pictures from the glass bottom boat.  The water seemed clearer than what we saw on our last glass bottom boat adventure.   It seemed that usable pictures would be a bit more attainable  I also had developed a different camera technique which helped tremendously.  Rather than watching for something then aiming the camera and trying to take a shot, I continuously watched through the viewfinder of the camera.  That gave me at least a fighting chance of catching something "on film". With both the fish and the boat moving, anything of interest was visible through the window for mere seconds

After some darkening and other minor processing at home, at least some of the pictures were good enough,to identify critters with iNaturalist.   However, I should be completely clear that these pictures pale in comparison to the beautiful video shot underwater with a GoPro by the UnCruise guide that accompanied our cruise as a guest. If he grants permission, I will include that video in the wrap-up post I plan to do at the end of all of these individual adventure posts. Stayed tuned.

Coral and sea urchins.  The first things we saw that might be of interest looked like white rocks (see the picture below), but may have been coral.  There is actually very little coral currently in Galapagos.  At least 95% of the coral was lost, primarily due to the extreme 1982-83 and 1997-98 El Nino events. Restoration efforts and more research is under way,.  It is not clear if the coral will return and, if so, how long it will take.  Different types of coral grow at dramatically different rates.

It looks like white rock but it may be coral, probably Pavona gigantea

We also saw sea urchins in multiple places, often with the coral.  In the picture below they are the little vegetation-like clusters.  We could often see lots of little fish, but I have forgotten what the guide told us they were. 

Lots of little fish, pencil sea urchins in the center on the left, some of the white Pavona gigantea coral on the right, with maybe a fish (brosnish color) on the right just below the coral

We actually saw at least two types of sea urchins.  Most were Galapagos Slate Pencil Urchins.

Galapagos Slate Pencil Urchins

Near the end of the trip on the east side of the peninsula we saw some white sea urchins sometimes called Sea Eggs.  They are the largest sea urchin species in the Galápagos Islands with a mean diameter of 4.5 in.

Sea Eggs

Many different fish. We saw a variety of different fish, but usually only one or two at a time.  This fish hiding down in a crack is a Panamic Fanged Blenny.  According to iNaturalist they wedge themselves into crevices near the shore.  That seems to be what he is doing here.

Panamic Fanged Blenny

We also saw a King Angelfish, although it looks a bit strange looking at it from above rather than from the side.

 

King Angelfish from above

We also saw what I thought was a parrotfish, but since it has not been confirmed on iNaturalist I am not sure.  In any case, it was pretty. 

Maybe a parrotfish

Mexican Hogfish.  One of the stranger fish we encountered was the Mexican hogfish.  Even though the fish in the next two pictures are dramatically different, they are both Mexican hogfish.  The variation can be even more dramatic than these pictures imply. 

First of all, the really weird thing is that Mexican hogfish start life as a female and later become a functional male.  

In the initial (female) phase, Mexican hogfish are reddish, grading to yellow on the posterior part of the body and the caudal fin. They have a pair of blackish stripes (may be broken) on the upper half of the side.  

In the terminal (male) phase, they are bluish green with a brown head (except for a white lower jaw) and a narrow yellowish bar on the middle of the side. 

Juveniles are similar to initial phase but with a yellow base color.  This website has better pictures of the various stages with their true colors.

 

Mexican hogfish, either a juvenile or female

 

Mexican hogfish, male

Surgeonfish.  By far the most common fish we saw and the only one (except for the really little fish) that we saw in larger groups or schools were surgeonfish.

A school of Surgeonfish


A better look at the Surgeonfish's markings

The Surgeonfish get their name from the scalpel  sharp spine in their tail meant to discourage predators. Even sea lions pnly eat them head-first to avoid hurting themselves on these spines

Sea stars.  We also saw what I would have called starfsih, but are probably more properly called sea stars.  One seemed large, but I could not tell much about any markings and therefore could not identify it.

Unidentified Sea Star

One I could identify even without looking it up was the Chocolate Chip Sea Star.  I was intrigued with seeing one ever since they showed it to us in one of the before dinner talks. I had been on the lookout and was glad I got a picture.

Chocolate Chip Sea Stars

Sea Turtle.  One of the more exciting captures was this picture the Frog got of a Green See Turtle. We had encountered them multiple places, but usually only all we saw was their head briefly sticking above water.  Unfortunately the glare on the window was at the wrong place at that moment, but it is still easy to see what it is.

Green Sea Turtle

Above the water critters.  Although there were not many, we did see a few things above the water.  They were all birds, perhaps due to the very steep rock walls. 

On the west  side we saw a brown noddy

Brown Noddy

and something new for us, a Lava Heron.

Lava Heron

Finally, among the last things we saw on the east side were some of the ubiquitous blue-footed boobies.

Blue-footed boobies on a ledge just above the water


Yet another blue-footed booby

Houston (uh, I mean La Pinta) we have a problem.  It was about this time that things became interesting in a different way.  The motor on the glass bottom boat stopped and the driver could not get it restarted.

Hmmm, maybe out of gas.  He hooked it up to the backup gas tank.  When he tried again the engine started to catch, but then would not start.

They got a panga out to us from the ship and we all scrambled aboard.  Fortunately the sea was relatively calm.  We had not needed the motor (yet) to keep the boat from being thrown against the rocks.

All this time the driver was trying without success to get the motor started.  We started to pull away in the panga, when several  of us got worried for the driver that we were leaving behind.  "We can't just leave him."  "Can we tow him?"  

After some discussion between the guide and the panga driver (in Spanish. of course) we went back to the glass bottom boat.  After more discussion, they were able to get a line across from the boat to the panga and pull the boat at least a little away from the rocks.




Then they got the rope attached to the back of the panga and we started back with the glass-bottom boat in tow.

The motor eventually started and we unhooked the tow line.  Much later, after we had returned to the ship, gone to our room, and finally come back up to the rear deck for something cold to drink, we saw the glass bottom boat driver return.  He did not look happy, but we were glad to see that he made it back safely.

Snorkeling.  While we were "dry snorkeling", everyone else was snorkeling for real.  I don't know exactly where they went, but when we were cooling down on the rear deck with a cold drink we saw them start to approach from somewhere to the west.

Pangas returning with the snorkelers.  There are three pangas, the two in the center and one barely visible to the far left barely below the black line at the edge of the coast.


Number 3 panga getting closer


Everybody looks wet but happy

Afternoon activities.  After everyone was onboard, the ship weighed anchor about 11:30 am..  We arrived at our next destination, the northwest corner of Santa Cruz Island, about 2 pm.  

The schedule says the afternoon activity was hiking the Cerro Dragon (Dragon Hill) Trail, so named for all of the land iguanas.  We did not go.  I cannot remember why since that should have been an easy hike.  Maybe they said something at the briefing the day before that gave us pause or maybe there was some other reason.  I just don't remember.  In any case, we stayed onboard, did laundry, and generally got ready for the big day tomorrow.  That would be a trip to the town of Puerto Ayora to visit the Charles Darwin Research Center, followed by a trip to the highlands to see giant tortoises.

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